Rincon Peak

September 5, 2004

Finally, after three years in Tucson, I got a chance to hike to the ridgeline of those OTHER mountains -- not the familiar Catalinas, but that other, bonier, more remote range whose mica and quartz-studded summits gleam like an ice pack in the winter sun.

The forecast was for three days of thunderstorms. But we were all packed and ready to go, so we left the mud tent at 5:00 am as planned, bound for Turkey Creek trailhead. When we arrived we found the summit enveloped in thick black clouds. Nice to look at, but no way to start a three-day backpacking trip.

After a five-star four-alarm gully washer, the skies cleared and we were back for a second attempt, this time and out-and-back to Happy Valley Saddle from the Miller Creek trailhead. This trail is overgrown and can be difficult to follow. In two days we only saw five other people.

The sun was relentless on that south-facing slope. Humidity from the previous day's rainstorm made for steambath conditions as we crawled over huge boulders with our heavy backpacks for four hours straight.

The views made it all worthwhile, though.

Time to shed some of that salt- and sweat-soaked clothing ...

Finally on top of the ridge, we made a beeline for the campground at Happy Valley Saddle. Sheltered by soaring Douglas firs and Ponderosa pines, on a quilt of soft pine needles, was a tent site where we could barely carry on a conversation over the frenzied whine of killer mosquitoes. Was "Happy Valley" some cowboy's bad joke?

After an hour-long nap, we re-emerged to explore a bit of the trail to Rincon Peak. We knew we couldn't make it to the summit so late in the day, but the sunset views were stupendous. This is looking northeast at ... yes, the Galiuro Mountains!

Here's a glimpse of elusive Rincon Peak. Maybe next time ...

It was a long and restless night, but we were serenaded by some most unaccustomed bird calls, including owls and whipoorwills. No larger mammals visited our camp, although the Rincons are home to mountain lions and black bears. For breakfast, we hiked back down to bare rock, where we had a dazzling view of the strange alluvial fans that comprise the eastern foothills of these mountains.

Here's a better view. What a strange and wonderful place!